Latte-stage capitalism
Baltimore, we are in a latte crisis. We have to stop overindulging in our love for a milkier drink and drowning out the good coffee we have here in our backyards.
I have no qualms about trying out a fun flavor from time to time, even the fall favorite pumpkin spice latte. But, perhaps due to social media and the eternal chase for the next photo-worthy drink, or simply in the midst of looking for the next syrup and flavor combination, we have forgotten the essence of the java drink. Do you know what kind of roast you prefer or what kind of bean your palate fancies? For years, it’s been hard to find a spot that can make a cappuccino, a one-to-one ratio of espresso, milk, and foam. Ordering one results inevitably in a latte: one part espresso, two parts milk, and a thin layer of foam.
Within city limits, we probably have over 10 local roasters offering a fresh, nonchain coffee drink, many of them women and POC-owned. Take Vent Coffee in Hampden, owned by Sarah Walker, whose “Ventilator” blend was a finalist for best espresso blend in the U.S. and Canada at this year’s Global Coffee Awards.
So the next time you want a caffeine hit, resist the urge to order a latte. Ask your barista about which roast or bean they’re using. If you can’t stomach the idea of pure coffee — as in a shot of espresso, even an Americano, or drip coffee — try a cortado, my personal favorite. Cortado comes from the Spanish verb “cortar,” which translates into cutting the espresso with a small amount of warm milk. The small one-to-one ratio helps retain the espresso flavor, resulting in a smooth cup of coffee. (Ana Bak)
The donut hole
I’ll say it: I don’t care for Dunkin’. I’m not interested in mass-produced little treats that are always going to taste a little plastic-y. And I don’t want a bougie $8 artisan donut either.
I just want a soft, classic glazed donut. I’m not going to go full “reject modernity, embrace tradition,” but we have too few mom-and-pop-size donut shops in Baltimore. There’s just nothing like walking into a dated little shop in a strip mall or plaza, settling into the comforting smell of fresh-baked donuts, and perusing the display cases for the dozen of your choice.
Woodlea Bakery is rightfully famed for its Apple Fritter — one of the freshest and most flavorful ones I’ve had the pleasure of eating — and Market Bakery at Lexington Market has soothed the craving for that classic glazed. But just like with dive bars or carryouts, it’s hard to beat proximity. Growing up in California, I’m used to seeing donut shops about every half-mile, and I find myself wishing we had even half of that density of cheap, simple, and quality donut options in Baltimore.
There are dozens (ha) of reasons for the disparity, including that it often makes more economic sense to have a full-scale bakery where you also sell donuts instead of specializing, but it feels like one of those things that lots of other cities have figured out, so I’m holding out hope that we’ll get there too. (Sanya Kamidi)
Landlocked in a harbor city
In the Chris Marker film “La Jetée,” the main character is able to travel back in time after a nuclear war because of a strong, visceral memory from his childhood. The primal scene of a man being shot as he ran toward a woman happened on a jetty at the airport, giving the film its name.
It’s probably my favorite movie, and it is one of the main reasons that I visited the newish Spike Gjerde joint of the same name in the Canopy Hotel in Harbor East. Sitting at the marble bar, looking out onto the harbor through the intersection of two large windows and sipping a Green Machine IPA, I was struck by my own primal memory: we live on the water.
The dearth of waterfront dining options in the city makes it easy to forget the amphibious nature of our city.
I mean, when’s the last really great waterfront dining experience you’ve had? For crabs, waterfront is almost an essential (although LP Steamers’ rooftop is a good exception). There’s Nick’s Fish House, with its great view of the Hanover Street bridge, but it’s now surrounded by cookie-cutter apartments and condos that feel like suburban Florida. On recent visits to Nick’s it was crazy crowded, and the last time they didn’t even have crabs.
There’s also Captain James’ crab deck, which had $49 all-you-can-eat medium crabs for two hours on weeknights. Forget the corn and the Maryland crab soup and get a bucket of light beer and get to work. But then there was a fire, and the crab dock closed for the season.
In Fells, there’s the beautiful Ampersea for special occasions, Barcocina (which is kind of waterfront), and a few other not-Atlas spots — but beware, you might get unconstitutionally ID’d by BPD just to enter the neighborhood.
And we have a lovely Memorial Day tradition of eating crabs at Phillip’s Seafood in the harbor and watching the metalheads in town for Deathfest picking crabs that I look forward to all year.
But we need more places to sit and stare out at the ripples and reflections of neon on the harbor. (Baynard Woods)
